Known by the Chinese as "the muscle of flour," gluten is the protein that gives bread its structure. If you could isolate gluten, you'd see a tough, elastic, grayish mass that resembles a well-used wad of chewing gum. Scientifically, it's one of the largest protein molecules in the natural world. Practically, it's what gives kneaded dough its springy aliveness and provides the framework for the intricate network of air bubbles produced by leavening agents.

When we knead bread or pizza dough, we're "developing the glutens." But not all baked goods benefit from strong, muscular glutens. Overworked glutens produce tough biscuits, leathery cookies and less-than-flaky piecrusts.

Wheat flours are generally high in gluten, hence their popularity in breads. All-purpose flour is made with a blend of high-gluten hard wheat and low-gluten soft wheat. Bread flour and gluten flour are made almost exclusively with high-gluten hard wheat and can be used alone or in conjunction with low-gluten flours such as rye. Cake flour is a soft wheat, finely ground flour that yields delicate textures.

Unfortunately, what's good for the loaf of bread isn't always good for the eater. Some people suffer from celiac disease or other disorders in which the body forms antibodies to fend off the proteins (or gluten) in flour, resulting in serious malnutrition. Fortunately, this doesn't necessarily mean swearing off baked goods. Flours that may be "safe" for the gluten-sensitive include corn, rice, buckwheat, amaranth, millet and quinoa.

Soul Dog Gluten-Free Chocolate Chip Cookies

Soul Dog Restaurant and Bakery, in Poughkeepsie, N.Y., substitutes this mix cup for cup for wheat flour, except in bread recipes. Look for xanthan gum next to the specialty flours.

Gluten-Free Baking Mix

21/3 cups chickpea flour

2/3 cup cornstarch

1/4 cup sugar

31/2 teaspoons xanthan gum

11/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon cream of tartar

Cookies

1 cup canola oil

3/4 cup sugar

3/4 cup brown sugar

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla

21/3 cups Gluten-Free Baking Mix

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups chocolate chips

To prepare baking mix, combine all ingredients. Store in an airtight container.

To prepare cookies, preheat oven to 350F. Grease a baking sheet.

Combine oil and sugars in a large bowl, and beat with a mixer on medium-high speed. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing until creamy. Add vanilla.

Reduce speed to low and gradually add 21/3 cups baking mix (you'll have some baking mix left over), baking soda and salt. Stir in chocolate chips.

Drop by level tablespoons or small ice cream scoop 2 inches apart onto baking sheet. Flatten slightly.

Bake 10 to 12 minutes. Remove cookies from pan; cool on wire racks. Makes about 2 dozen.

Per cookie: 250 calories, 15g fat, 20mg cholesterol, 3g protein, 29g carbohydrates, 2g fiber, 250mg sodium.

Look for Relish magazine, celebrating America's love of food, each month in the Gazette-Times. For more Relish recipes, see www.relishmag.com.