Composed of the dried stigmas of the crocus sativus, saffron holds the distinction of being the most expensive spice in the world. It takes more than 70,000 flowers to yield a pound of saffron, and each stigma must be painstakingly picked by hand. Quality saffron costs about $100 a pound. Because a single gram can flavor two or three memorable meals, think of a $5 vial of saffron as an affordable extravagance.

The pop singer Donovan wasn't the first to be "mad about saffron." Originally used as a medicine and a dye, saffron was well known in ancient Persia. Sumerians used it in their magic potions. Cleopatra took saffron baths to heighten sexual pleasure. Alexander the Great used saffron infusions to treat his battle wounds.

By 960 A.D., Arabs had begun cultivating saffron in Spain, and its popularity eventually spread throughout Europe. During the plagues of the Middle Ages, saffron-based medications were in high demand - a war was fought over the stuff in the 14th century, and in Germany, adulteration of the spice became punishable by death.

Saffron is integral to some of the world's most cherished dishes: the paellas of Spain, the bouillabaisse of Provence, the saffron cakes of Essex, the risottos of Milan. Buy saffron in threads; powdered saffron quickly loses flavor. If your recipe calls for powdered saffron, crush threads immediately before use. Buy in small quantities, and store in a cool dark place. Beware of imitations: turmeric and safflower are sometimes sold as saffron.

Risotto Alla Milanese

This creamy, saffron-scented rice makes a great supper, paired with nothing more than a salad. Arborio rice is used in risotto because its starchiness adds to the creaminess of the dish.

5 cups lower-sodium chicken broth

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1/3 cup onion, finely minced

1 1/2 cup Arborio rice

1/2 cup dry white wine

½ to 1 teaspoon saffron threads

1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

¼ teaspoon salt

• Coarsely ground black pepper

• Sprigs of thyme

Bring broth to a simmer in a saucepan. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a heavy 4-quart pan over moderate heat. Add onion and sauté, stirring, until onion is softened but not yet browned, about 2 minutes. Add rice; stir for a minute or so, making sure all grains are coated. Add wine; stir until it is completely absorbed.

Crush saffron, add to pan, and continue stirring for another minute. Begin to add broth, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring frequently after each addition, until liquid is almost completely absorbed. After about 15 minutes, begin to taste the rice. Risotto is done when rice is tender but al dente. (You might not need all the broth.) Turn off heat; stir in Parmesan and remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Add salt and pepper, garnish with thyme; and pass additional cheese at the table if desired. Serves 6.

Per serving: 290 calories, 9g fat, 30mg cholesterol, 7g protein, 40g carbohydrates, 2g fiber, 670mg sodium.

Look for Relish magazine, celebrating America's love of food, each month in the Gazette-Times. For more Relish recipes, see www.relishmag.com.