By Jo Marshall
Relish magazine contributor | Posted: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 12:00 am
A white powder with little taste of its own, MSG (monosodium glutamate) is one of the world's most common food additives. Chemically speaking, it's a sodium (salt) derived from glutamic acid (an amino acid, or protein). Commercially speaking, it's a powerful flavor enhancer used in everything from canned soup to take-out chicken.
MSG began its ascent to ubiquity in 1908, when a Japanese chemist found it produced a savory flavor, distinct from the sweet, sour, salty and bitter tastes recognized by gourmands of the time. He dubbed the flavor umami, Japanese for "delicious." He further noted that a sea vegetable Japanese cooks had used for centuries was particularly rich in the stuff. Boom! Scientists went to work to extract it, and a multinational industry was born.
While the FDA maintains that MSG is perfectly safe when consumed at typical levels, opponents blame it for maladies ranging from ADHD to Alzheimer's. If you suspect you might be sensitive, avoiding it practically requires a Ph.D. in chemistry: MSG is a major component in a long list of additives with such sexy names as hydrolyzed protein and autolyzed yeast.
Interestingly, the health risks of MSG came to light only after major food processors found ways to extract it cheaply. Japanese cooks had used sea vegetables for years with no apparent health problems, and one of the first published reports of "Chinese Restaurant Syndrome" came from a Chinese immigrant who first experienced symptoms after moving to the United States.
Thai Peanut Sauce
Love Thai food but hate the MSG headache? Make your own creamy peanut sauce to serve with grilled chicken or pork, as a dip for cucumber slices, or tossed with a tangle of noodles. Add as much or as little crushed red pepper as you like.
4 teaspoons peanut oil
2/3 cup minced shallots
4 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
6 tablespoons creamy peanut butter
2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
2 teaspoons dark brown sugar
3/4 cup water
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
Heat oil in a heavy saucepan. Add shallots, garlic and crushed red pepper; cook over low heat until fragrant and just beginning to color, about 3 minutes.
Whisk in peanut butter, hoisin, brown sugar and water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 1 minute. Stir in lime juice.
Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 11/2 cups.
Source: Recipe by Laraine Perri.
Per (2-tablespoon) serving: 80 calories, 6g fat, 0mg cholesterol, 2g protein, 6g carbohydrates, 1g fiber, 130mg sodium.
Look for Relish magazine, celebrating America's love of food, each month in the Gazette-Times. For more Relish recipes, see www.relishmag.com.